Mechanical movements aren’t mysteries. Here’s everything you need to know about the history and how of self-winding automatic watch movements.
It wasn’t that long ago that people paid tolls by handing money to attendants, made phone calls by dialing a number, and created playlists (or, if you’re of a certain age, mixtapes) by physically transferring their music from records to a tape deck. All this progress is defined by technology’s ability to free us up from the mundane and time-consuming, and it’s a type of progress that has defined innovation for centuries. You can even see this kind of progress in horology if you look back to 1777, when Abraham-Louis Perrelet developed a self-winding mechanical watch movement to eliminate the hassle of winding one’s watch.
A REVOLUTIONARY MOVEMENT BASED ON REVOLUTIONS
As we’ve discussed before, watches with mechanical movements are powered by the uncoiling of their mainspring. This meant that, back in Perrelet’s time, daily winding was an essential part of owning a personal timepiece to retighten the mainspring for another day of timekeeping. Perrelet’s brilliant idea was to reroute the crown-to-mainspring winding mechanism with a slight detour: the rotor.
In Perrelet’s pocket watch-based design, the rotor functioned as a weight mounted to the movement in such a way that it revolved as the wearer moved. These revolutions would wind the mainspring, which in turn kept the watch running and eliminated the mundane act of winding your watch before wearing every day. Despite the rotor “replacing” the crown in terms of handing the once-tedious winding process, most automatic movements still allow for “crown winding” as well. Though if you’re like most automatic watch owners, the only time you’re using the crown is to set your time (or dual time) and day/date. It’s no wonder some watch aficionados take umbrage when people say “an automatic watch is different from a mechanical manual-wind watch”—it’s like saying a Tesla isn’t a car simply because of its engine.
MOVING PERRELET’S IDEA FROM POCKET TO WRIST
While Perrelet’s design was brilliant in its simplicity, it was still designed for pocket watches. Even back in his day, pocket watches weren’t subjected to the level of activity and movement that we associate with wristwatches today. That’s because wristwatches as a concept owes its existence to World War One. Commanders and troops found it difficult to keep reaching for their pocket watches to synchronize battle plans, so a watch movement was engineered to fit into a wrist-sized case and the watch was moved from pocket to wrist.
With the war over, the wristwatch was here to stay, which meant that all the designs, and innovations beloved in the pocket watch needed to make the leap to the wrist. In 1923, a British watchmaker named John Harwood reimagined Perrelet’s design so it could fit this new breed of wrist-sized movements. Harwood’s redesign had merit, but it wasn’t without issues—namely the fact that the rotor’s movement was limited, which limited its efficiency in winding the mainspring.
Enter an up-and-coming company called Rolex, who in 1931 introduced a reimagined version of Harwood’s reimagined design that addressed the rotor’s limited movement and built upon it with their new “Power Reserve” innovation. This featured stored and regulated the mainspring’s power to ensure accurate timekeeping for anywhere from 36 hours to 8 days—even if the watch was in a drawer instead of on a wrist.
Given the “timeless” potential of their movement, Rolex decided to call it “The Perpetual” (a name that is still with the brand today). And while other innovations have come along since, including a rotor that could spin in two directions without unwinding the mainspring, they’re all based on Perrelet’s core design from almost three centuries ago.
THE EVOLUTION OF THE REVOLUTION
Fast forward to the current horological landscape and you can see automatic watches continue to command a serious chunk of the watch community’s attention. Exhibition casebacks are a prized feature, ideal for admiring precision-crafted elements like skeletonized movements and engraved or signed rotors. They’ve also spawned a successful cottage industry of “watch winders,” computer- and app-controlled devices that mimic the wearer’s wrist motion to keep the rotor spinning when the watch isn’t being worn. Like everything watch-related, these winders range from under $50 to vault-type models that cost more than a house and can handle 50 or more watches at once.
But even without an engineering degree or a down-payment for a watch winder, it’s easy to appreciate just how far Perrelet’s idea has come. Watch lovers everywhere have no problem enjoying the benefits of these advancements while staying true to the soul of Perrelet’s original motivation. You can see it clearly in our Presidia 943—a dual time zone watch that features a day/night indicator, all powered by the increased efficiency of the modern automatic movement. Even more impressive is the fact that this powerful movement fits in a 42mm silhouette, big enough to project a presence yet not so big as to demand it. And with stunning skeletonization and mesmerizing guillochet work, it’s easy to appreciate Perrelet’s legacy in every wind.